Author Topic: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.  (Read 8556 times)

Offline thomasg

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #15 on: July 07, 2009, 12:42:09 AM »
lucille:

I recently bought my "junior 2 bedroom" (very small second room) co-op in the historic district (I was looking for smaller than you) & did all the same "investigating" you are doing.  You seem to be "right on" on both the prices & the areas to look in.  Most of the units are on the market for at least 6 months & seem to lower their prices a little, not because of any problems, just to be able to sell.  The historic district is truly beautiful to live in.  The Roosevelt Ave. crowds, & all that goes with that, does get somewhat annoying, but I guess that's relatively typical of many neighborhoods in NYC.

I made the move from a tiny studio in Manhattan & love living here.

Offline ShinjukuBaby

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #16 on: July 07, 2009, 01:35:36 PM »
I just noticed that you're talking about a 3 or 4 bedroom apartment.  I was wrong when I said $300K would get something nice. 

But it'll still be far less than $1.2M.

Offline petegart

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2009, 10:08:27 AM »
A beautiful genuine 3 bedroom, 2 bath just sold in the Greystones for around 485K.  With monthly maint at $600. you can't beat the value in JH.

Offline lucille

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #18 on: July 11, 2009, 07:15:31 PM »
Back from JH, at long last! We went yesterday afternoon and spent a while wandering around, and even spent some time talking to a realtor. After having only spent time on and near 74th St for Indian food and groceries, it was really interesting to see the whole neighborhood. A few thoughts:

1) The diversity is truly unbelievable. I always like to tell people that living in NYC is like living in Epcot Center, but if that's true, JH is the core. Just incredible. Just one vignette: Columbian woman with stroller talking to an old Greek guy while an Indian man walks past and an old Jewish couple comes up from the rear. And we saw openly gay couples holding hands! Wow. Fantastic to see, and I really didn't sense any tension at all. It seems that one end of the 'hood is more Indian and another part is more Latin American, etc., but it's still remarkable.

2) We were surprised at how much business was there. Yeah, lots of stores sell cheap clothes or what have you, but this tells me that the community is thriving and shopping within its own boundaries. Plus, there were certainly plenty of the stores we would need, even if the neighborhood still lacks a bookstore (my only negative, shopping-wise). To see stores stretch all the way down 37th, as well as far up 82nd, is great. And bonus points for the killer Buster Brown sign on a shoestore!

3) The housing stock seems to vary, which is probably the result of a neighborhood in some transition, and certainly a result of what I imagine are older folks who've lived there for decades. It was a shame to see a string of English townhouses and half of them be a little run down. I'm sure that sometimes when you're 70 or something, keeping up appearances isn't so top priority. We also noticed some drastic differences in the apartment buildings. You can certainly tell on a glance what's a co-op and what's rentals (but I suppose that's true anywhere). On the initial route we took up 82nd and to 86th via 34th, there were some places falling apart. Then later, after speaking with the realtor, we headed up 80th and strolled down the upper 70s on 34th and saw a different story.

4) Not a ton of foot traffic outside of 37th, and no one in the gardens, enjoying them, at the Chateau or the Towers. But then, it was a Friday afternoon. Might be different on a weekend. We'll see. We hope to come back and see some open houses at some point soon.

5) On a related note, are there any parks or playgrounds outside of the one where there's a farmer's market? I know the colossal Flushing Meadows is nearby, but I'm curious.

6) Further to eating, are there many supermarkets? We walked nearly the length of 37th and didn't see one. There's always Fresh Direct, but... There's gotta be supermarkets. I guess we just didn't see them?

7) A final one! How's the neighborhood for kids? Schools? Recreation and socializing?

Many thanks to those of you on this board. Everyone being so helpful just goes to show me how many folks are really invested in their neighborhood, which is great!


Offline dssjh

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2009, 09:11:12 PM »
so happy to hear that your overall impression was positive and, frankly, pretty spot on (even the quibbles).

there are indeed supermarkets on 37 ave -- the trade fair at 75th is small but wonderful and open 24 hours. great selection of ethnic goodies, south asian, eastern european and spanish, and a suprisingly good meat department and organic produce section. there's a met food at 76th, and another trade fair in the high 80s. if you have a car, the waldbaum's in the 31st/75th shopping center is also nice.

i do not have children, but most of my friends do --mostly between the ages of two and five (or so). there seems to be a lot of easy socializing. if you return, check the bulletin board at espresso 77, a lovely little spot on 77th street where i always see moms and dads with kids playing both inside and out. it seems as if there are a lot of loosely organized activities, and on sundays, when the farmer's market is open, the street is a play street with loads of kids frolicking

the downside? green space is pretty much limited to the gardens at the various buildings. that makes me sad sometimes.

Offline Shelby2

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #20 on: July 11, 2009, 09:37:58 PM »
Lucille, thanks so much for reporting back on your impressions.  It's appreciated!

To dss's list of supermarkets I would also add the one on Northern and 86th (Compare Foods, I think).  I imagine that those who live in buildings on 34th Ave in the 80s probably end up shopping there.  It went through a recent overhaul and is pretty nice, though the aisles are quite crowded.  There is also a C-Town on 37th between 85th and 86th, though I don't exacty recommend it.

If you have a car, there's a Trader Joe's in Rego Park (you can find directions somewhere on this board), and there are several other grocery stores within driving distance that have parking lots, such as Stop and Shop on Northern near the Home Depot and Best Yet in Astoria.

I can't find a grocery store that I love, so I keep shopping around and buy things from all over, including the smaller stores like the Italian Deli on 37th and many of the small fruit and vegetable places.  Of the local grocery stores, I would say the Met on 37th near 76th St. is my top choice.

Offline soundslover

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #21 on: July 11, 2009, 09:50:39 PM »
I just want to add that I really like the produce from the Growing Farm, right across from the Met, at 77th and 37th ave.  I find it to be really fresh, and a bargain.  Also, I buy asian foods such as white rice and japanese natto (fermented soybean), and japanese beer, at the chonghap market at 73rd and Broadway.  The other asian market, at Broadway and 75th street, is also good.

While there isn't an amazing one-stop place to get everything, one can find excellent food at great prices in Jackson Heights -- you just have to buy from a mix of different stores.  I still have to go to Zabar's in Manhattan for my torta del casar, epoisses and other cheeses, and also for plugra butter, smoked salmon, and charcuterie.

Offline dssjh

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #22 on: July 11, 2009, 10:02:36 PM »
actually, you can get amazing cheese at d'espana on northern blvd and good imported butter at both monika deli on 37th and the reopened gourmet fantasy foods (which also has smoked salmon, albeit not to cmpare to zabar)

Offline soundslover

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #23 on: July 11, 2009, 11:07:22 PM »
thanks!  I forgot about despana.  They do have some good cheeses and meats, you're right... and at the gourmet deli on 76th st. they have great salmon roe (I like the bigger eggs in the glass jar).  i'll check out monika deli too.

Offline rachel

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #24 on: July 12, 2009, 02:40:22 AM »
What are Despana's hours?  Is it still open?  Every time I have tried to go there (during the day) the door is locked and it is closed.  Is there some secret password I am missing?

Offline dssjh

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #25 on: July 12, 2009, 07:13:00 AM »
i think d'espana may have dialed back retail hours here in JH -- as it has always been more of a wholesale biz anyway.

i know they are still open for retail customers on saturdays....there's always a huge spread of samples and the owner (manager?) is pouring wine for all in the room.

Offline leoooog

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #26 on: July 12, 2009, 09:37:29 PM »
5) On a related note, are there any parks or playgrounds outside of the one where there's a farmer's market? I know the colossal Flushing Meadows is nearby, but I'm curious.

Doughboy Park in Woodside is about a 30 minute walk from eastern JH. I sometimes go there when I feel like lying on grass, but I wish there was a closer alternative.

Offline jsh

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #27 on: July 13, 2009, 02:01:32 PM »
  I still have to go to Zabar's in Manhattan for my torta del casar, epoisses and other cheeses, and also for plugra butter, smoked salmon, and charcuterie.

FYI, the Compare Foods on Northern at 86th/87th carries Plugra most of the time.

Offline C11106

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #28 on: July 13, 2009, 03:57:27 PM »
Doughboy Park in Woodside is about a 30 minute walk from eastern JH. I sometimes go there when I feel like lying on grass, but I wish there was a closer alternative.

Where is this park?  I've never heard of it

Offline leoooog

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Re: Potential new residents -- give us a few pointers for our visit.
« Reply #29 on: July 13, 2009, 04:07:48 PM »
Where is this park?  I've never heard of it

Wodside Ave. and 56th St. If walking on Roosevelt, make a right on Woodside.