NY Times: At Dawa’s in Queens, a Fusion of Earth and Skyhttp://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/27/dining/dawas-restaurant-queens-tibetan-food.html"The bowl of ragged-edged pork belly is a recipe from Bhutan, the meat vested with the deep sour of fermented bamboo shoots. Its flavor hints at turned earth or wood broken down by rain, a funk wonderfully, perilously close to rot.
Beside it is risotto, arborio rice gone cloudy and fat in white wine and a stock of fennel and artichoke scraps, finished not with cheese, but peas freshly shucked and tasting still new to the world.
The two dishes emerge from the same kitchen at Dawa’s, a Tibetan and American cafe in Woodside, Queens. This feels not like a hyphenation, but a continuum: one table, one life.
Dawa Bhuti runs the restaurant with her father, Ngodup Gyaltsen, and an uncle, Lobsang Tenzin. Her family roots are in Dzonga, Tibet, a village in the Himalayas at an altitude of some 13,500 feet.
It is a place she has never been. She was born across the border, in Kathmandu, Nepal, and she spent much of her youth in India at boarding schools for Tibetan refugees, before coming to New York in 2004 at 20.
Now she cooks alongside her father, who joined her in the United States three years ago. He used to circumambulate the city, delivering homemade lunchboxes to Tibetans working at farmers’ markets; she went to culinary school and did stints at Mercer Kitchen, Rouge Tomate and, most recently, Reynard, whose loyalty to local farms and the seasons is reaffirmed at Dawa’s."
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Topic: Dawa's - Brunch & Himalayan in Woodside (Read 1664 times)